Info

Usage

Grab hold

Hold the hangboard with the rear side angled towards you.

Brace

Place your foot onto the foothold between the ropes.

Lean back

Keep your arms straight and your leg slightly bent. Lean back to apply tension to your fingers compressing the springs in the process.

Training Regimes

Pick a training regime or do what you want!

Light

Recommended for any level climbers. Improves overall finger strength and resiliance to injuries.
Low risk of injury.*

  1. 40% max strength for 10s

2. 60s rest

3. Repeat steps 1&2 nine more times

4. Wait 6hrs before restarting for a twice a day training frequency

Benefits of this excercise should become apparent after ~30days.

Exercise Prompt Track:

Heavy

Not recommended for beginers. Higher risk of injury. Improves max holding time/weight. Can be made more difficult with smaller edges.**

  1. 10s hold using maximum effort (not to failure)
  2. 3min rest
  3. Repeat steps 1&2 four more times
  4. Rest 5 mins before going for a second set of 5 hangs (steps 1-3)

Exercise Prompt Track:

* https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39560837

** https://physivantage.com/pages/the-ultimate-guide-to-hangboard-training-for-climbers

Spring Compression Reducers

All sets of purchases involving springs(on it’s own or purhcasesed along with the fingerboard) will come with a spring compression reducer set that can be used to prevent springs from fully compressing. This effectively shortens the available length of the spring lowering the force required to fully compress it.

Here’s an example showing how to reduce 35mm long 76kg rated springs to lower compression weights. See table bellow for the full list of possible reductions.

No reducers – full available compression at 76kg
Bottom (15mm thick) does not reduce compression of the spring – still at 76kg
First (5mm thick) reducer prevents part of the spring from compressing fully – 57kg
Second (5mm thick) reducer prevents more of the spring from compressing fully – 38kg
Third (5mm thick) reducer prevents more of the spring from compressing fully – 19kg
Having a fourth (5mm thick) reducer would not allow the spring to be compressed at all, so there is no point adding it.
25mm 56kg Springs*30mm 66kg Springs35mm 76kg Springs30mm 86kg Springs
BlockersAdjusted Compression Weight (kg)
Bottom Blocker56667686
1 x 5mm36445757
2 x 5mm18223829
3 x 5mm00190
4 x 5mmxx0x

Spring Compression Reducer – Insert and Remove